Hans xieemann



Patented Nov. 15, 1927.

' UNITED STATES 1. 4 .110 PATENT OFF-ICE.

HANSLEEMANN, or norrurnennuonm-nmnmenn, NEAR BASEL, AND Giovanni: TAGLIANI, or BASEL, SWITZERLAND, assrenons, BY mnsnn ASSIGNMENTS, 'ro num'rnx oonrona'rron', or 1.0m, NEW JnasnY, A conronarron on NEW, was.

' RESERVE DYEING ON VEGETABLE FIBERS.

Re Drawing; Application ,flled April 27, 1925, Serial No. 26,289, and in Germany Kay 7, 1924.

The hitherto known reserve processes consist of mechanical or chemical operations. To the first ty e belongs the binding and the covering of the vegetable fibers (yarns and fabrics) b substances insoluble in water so that the yestufi's employed can only soak in and be fixed on the unbound or uncovered arts of the fabric. To the second class be ngs the application of certain 10 agents, preferably of salts, which react chem ically durin the dyeing or during thedevelopment of e dyes. All these processes depend, however, on certain conditions. If the reserve agents employed are removed during the dyeing (process or durin the development of the yes,.when they 0 not resist these operations until the end of the dyeing, then the desired reserve effect does not occur and the fabric is dyed uniformly throughout as if the reserve means had not been used at all.

It is known from German specification No. 346,883 and others, that it is possible to render vegetable 'fibers (yarns, loose material,

' 26 fabrics completely immune against substantive dyestufi's by treating them. after alkalization with solutions of aromatic carboxylie acid chlorides oraromatic sulpho-acid chlorides. Both the alkalization and the 0 action of the aromatic acid or sulpho-acid chlorides are so effected that the whole of the vegetable fibers is brought into the solutions of the respective agents.

It has now been shown in a surprising 5 manner that this esterification can also be used for the topical alteration of the vegetable fibers, in view of the production of re serve effects, for example in a suitable printing rocess. It was not at all to be 40 foreseen mm the more-active treatment in l solution that the short superficial and sparse local treatment, as it takes place for example v in the printing process, would sufiice to produce the desired esterification. This process afiords permanently reserving'patternswith unexpected dyeing properties, which remain fast even after hot washing operations, after hot neutral, acid or alkaline dye baths.

The

now utilized in the process for reserve dyeing on vegeta le fibers forming the sub ect of the presen invention. This process consists 1n first treating table fibers by a loea roduction of such reserve effects is topically. the veg printing with a suitable alkalizing agent, such for example-as a concentrated alkaline solution, with or without thickening agent, with or without the addition of alcohol or with an alcoholic solution of an alkali alcoholate, then in applying thereon in dry or'moist condition, an

esterifying aromatic acid chloride, such as an aromatic carboxylic acid chloride, or an aromatic sulpho acid chloride, in pure or dissolved condition, and finally after the resulting esterification in thoroughl washing the vegetable fibers being thus ocally altered at the places of the aforesaid print, to constitute what is commonly termed as reserve eflects. Thereupon the fibers are dyed with a substantive dyestufi, without the lo cally altered esterified places taking up the dye, so that they appear white on a colored ground. The fibers may be in form of loose material, yarns or fabrics.

It has also been found that by adding an excess of certain dyestufi's to the alkalizing agent and after treatment with the esterifying agent, colored reserve eifects can be obtained on the fibers, which are in no .way afi'ected by the subsequent d eing operations.

Locally esterified vegetable fibers (loose material and yarns) can also be worked up with woollen fibers for mixed fabrics. If these mixed fabrics are first dyed with a basic dyestuif and subsequently in a bath with substantive and certam acid dyestuffs, a special mottled efiect can be obtained. The first used basic dyestuif is fixed bythe esterified places of the vegetable fibers, the substantive dyestuif by the unaltered vegetable fibers, whilstthe woollen material takes up the acid dyestufi.

As dyestuffs, there ma be used in all above operations the usua coloring matters which are suitable for carrying out the improved process.

What we claim is I 1. A' process for reserve dyeingon vegetable fibers, which consists in treating ,topically the vegetable fibers by a local printing with an alka izing agent, thereu on applying an esterifyingaromatic acid c orideto produee a topical alteration of the thus locally printed fiber, then washin subsequently to the-esterificatio1i and fina y dyeing the unaltered vegetable fibers.

2. A process for reserve dyeing on vegetable fibers, which consists in treating topically the vegetable fibers by a local print-' ing with an alkaliz'mg agent, thereupon applying an esterifying aromatic acid chloride to produce a topical alteration of the thus 5 locally prin fiber' then washing subsequently to tll bst 10 table fibers, which consists in treating topically the vegetable fibers bya local printing with an alkalizing agent, thereupon ap lying an esterifying aromatic sulpho-acid e lori e to produce a topical alteration of the thus locally printed fibers, then washing subsequently to the esterification and finally dyeing the unaltered vegetable fibers.

In witness whereof we have hereunto signed our names this 15th day of April, 1925.

HAN S LEEMANN. GIOVANNI TAGLIANI. 

